Rotorua in the spring
Checking out the birdlife while one does a photo bomb flight on us.
Sunny faced daffodils nodded a cheery welcome to us, and to the first day of spring, as we arrived at the Rotorua lakefront.
The green, shadowy outline of Mokoia Island, a wildlife sanctuary, quietly presided over the heart of the lake.
The waterfront’s paved and concrete paths, sculptures and native plantings are now well established.
Mānuka, known as symbols of resilience, were blooming with delicate white flowers.
From a planked jetty we had close views of black swans, geese and gulls. A large group of papango or scaups were cruising gently, close to shore.
These birds are diurnal feeders and if they are regularly disturbed, they feed at night and rest more in the day.
Close by the speedy dabchicks or weweia bobbed about, ducking underwater and popping up some 100 metres away.
We followed a track through a thicket of kānuka and met a dead end where fallen trees blocked the entrance to an old jetty.
A gravel path led us to Motutara Point. Here rather forlorn pieces of a metal cradle perched. Until last week when she was relaunched, they supported the Lakeland Queen.
First launched in 1986, her Mississippi paddle boat design allowed her to work in shallow water. Unfortunately, she had been in dry dock at the point since October 2021 and Covid-19 trade restrictions.
The point was noisy and busy with waterfowl organising their territory. Welcome swallows flittered over the water flashing their reddish under neck feathers as they swooped over us chasing insects.
The water in this bay and the Sulphur Point Wildlife Sanctuary is a milky colour due to sulphur suspension and is very acidic at pH 3.7..
Some birds’ feet are deformed and burnt by this, and we did see a dead trout, perhaps killed by the water.
Some birds have a fast metabolic rate and need lots of energy to fly. Living near and on this warm water reduces their energy consumption but does mean they need to seek food elsewhere as little prey survives in these conditions.
Few plants tolerate the conditions and some appeared burnt by sulphur fires.
Signage warns humans of the dangers in the area including burns, hydrogen sulphide gas, water temperatures of 100 degrees Celsius, and collapsing fragile ground.
We stayed strictly on the pathways and boarded lookout areas.
The most threatened gull species in the world, the tarāpuka or black billed gull has made its home here. It has a long slender black bill which distinguishes it from the red bill which is usually a coastal bird but has settled here.
Soon we joined the mingimingi hedged shared trail. There were breaks to cross sulphur flats and view sulphur mounds.
Sulphur was mined here in the 1890’s and later the area was used as landfill before restoration was commenced.
Walking over the causeway avoiding the many dangerous active areas.
Spoilt with a foot spa at the end of the day.
The Postmaster Baths built here were so dangerous that a caretaker lived nearby to haul out the unconscious.
Despite being touted as a remedy for many ailments and a cure for alcoholism they were closed by ministerial decision after two drownings.
We negotiated the area with caution and returned from the end of the track to the Government Gardens to admire the sculptures some of which commemorate WW1, others the environment and even the White Mouse, aka Nancy Wake.
The silica water from Rachel Pool or Whangapīpiro is 212 degrees Fahrenheit and was piped to the now closed Bath House.
After a quick visit to the resited Lakeland Queen, we walked to Kuirua Park to soak our feet in the less ferocious foot baths there. A great place to relax and chat to people from many countries.
Pity we forgot the towels but the socks soon dried. Continuing the water bath theme, we called at Butcher’s Pool near Reporoa on our way home.
This open air, mineral spring pool was used by the family for bathing, then gifted to the people of Reporoa, upgraded in WW2 by ‘objectors’ and further improved in the year 2000. A great way to end an interesting day.
Next Monday we have a river walk planned. If you would like more information, please email walkersmondaytaupo@gmail.com or follow us on Facebook at “Taupo Monday Walkers“